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Installation of a Venmar AVS (vänEE) air exchanger with Virtuo technology in rigid ductwork in La Prairie, South Shore

At La Prairie, forty feet of collapsed flexible ductwork made a Venmar air exchanger noisy and inefficient. A dedicated galvanized steel rigid-duct system, duct heater, and AirGreen-measured balancing resolved the issue.

By AirGreen Climatisation & Chauffage Admin11 min read
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Installation of a Venmar AVS (vänEE) air exchanger with Virtuo technology in rigid ductwork in La Prairie, South Shore
Installation of a Venmar AVS (vänEE) air exchanger with Virtuo technology in rigid ductwork in La Prairie, South Shore
The full story

The article, chapter by chapter

Forty feet of flexible duct replaced with galvanized steel, and a sound level meter to prove it

The initial measurement, taken in the primary bedroom of a home in the Symbiocité area in La Prairie, was 41 dBA at night, with the air exchanger running at medium speed. The owner, an engineer by training, had purchased a sound level meter before calling us. He wanted a number, not an impression.

The second symptom was subtler: the back bedroom, at the end of the system, received barely perceptible airflow, while the office fifteen feet from the unit was blasted by a cold draft in January.

The same culprit explained both: the ductwork system.

What we found above the suspended ceiling

The original installation, completed during construction, included approximately forty feet of flexible duct on the supply side. Three observations, all common:

  • Sagging between suspension points. The flexible duct hung in festoons, with each dip forming a pressure pocket.
  • Overly tight bend radii. Two right-angle elbows were folded back on themselves, with a radius of less than one diameter.
  • Compression at penetrations. The duct was crushed between a joist and a plumbing pipe, reduced to perhaps 60% of its cross-section.

A properly stretched flexible duct already creates significantly more airflow resistance than a smooth rigid duct of the same diameter. When sagging, tightly bent, and compressed, the difference becomes considerable, costing you in three ways: lost airflow, generated noise, unnecessary electricity consumption.

Why we favor rigid galvanized ductwork

The system we installed in La Prairie uses rigid galvanized steel for nearly its entire length, with short flexible sections only where they genuinely serve a purpose.

What rigid ductwork brings
  • A smooth interior surface. Less turbulence, less pressure loss, less airflow noise.
  • Stable geometry over time. A properly suspended rigid duct maintains its cross-section for twenty years. A flexible duct sags from the very first year.
  • Cleanability. A rigid system can be brushed and vacuumed. Corrugated flexible duct traps dust in every groove and tears under the brush.
  • Controlled airtightness. Screwed joints sealed with approved aluminum tape or sealant, which can be visually inspected.
Where flexible duct remains the right choice

Flexible duct is not a bad material. It is a material that is often used incorrectly.

We use it deliberately:

  1. As a short sleeve at the unit outlet, twelve to eighteen inches long, to isolate cabinet vibrations from the rigid ductwork. This is visible at our La Prairie job site, at the unit outlets.
  2. For the final connection to a grille, when the finished-ceiling geometry requires it.
  3. To get around a specific obstacle that a rigid elbow cannot clear cleanly.

In all three cases, we apply the same rules: the duct must be stretched tight, never coiled for spare length; supports about every four feet; a bend radius of at least one duct diameter, preferably one and a half; no compression.

Sealing: the detail that determines everything

Gray cloth tape, commonly called “duct tape,” has no place on a ventilation system. Its adhesive dries out, cracks, and comes loose within two to four years in a warm service cavity. We seal with approved aluminum tape or duct sealant, using screws at the joints.

A system with 15% leakage delivers 15% less air to the bedrooms while consuming just as much energy. The leak is invisible and permanent.

The key decision: three ways to connect an air exchanger

This is the question the owner in La Prairie asked us after the assessment, and it is the question most readers ask when comparing quotes on the South Shore. The three methods have different costs and produce different results.

Method 1 — Simplified installation

The air exchanger draws stale air from the furnace return plenum and injects fresh air back into it.

  • Cost: the lowest
  • Distribution: entirely dependent on the furnace fan
  • Major constraint: the central fan must run continuously or be interlocked with the air exchanger. Without this interlock, fresh air stagnates in the plenum and falls back into the basement.
  • Risk of short-circuiting: if the stale-air intake and fresh-air supply are too close together in the plenum, the unit recirculates air back onto itself. We space them well apart, generally at least three feet, and the supply is installed upstream of the furnace.

Best reserved for tight budgets and homes already equipped with a well-designed forced-air network.

Method 2 — Partially dedicated installation

Exhaust is handled by dedicated grilles in the bathrooms, laundry room, and kitchen. Supply air continues to be injected into the return plenum.

  • Cost: intermediate
  • Real advantage: humidity and odors are captured at the source, where they are produced
  • Limitation: fresh-air distribution remains dependent on the central fan

This is the compromise we recommend most often for renovations, when the bedroom ceilings are finished and installing a complete supply network would involve significant drywall work.

Method 3 — Fully dedicated installation

Two separate networks: supply to the bedrooms, living room, and office; exhaust from the bathrooms, kitchen, and laundry room. The air exchanger operates independently of the heating system.

  • Cost: the highest
  • Performance: the best, without comparison
  • Autonomy: the unit ventilates even when the furnace or heat pump is off, which matters a great deal during the shoulder seasons

This is the method we chose in La Prairie, in a high-performance home where the airtight building envelope makes mechanical ventilation non-negotiable.

The detail that makes a difference to comfort in January: the duct heater

A fully dedicated installation blows fresh air directly into the bedrooms. Even after passing through the recovery core, this air remains colder than the ambient air during severe cold snaps on the South Shore.

Venmar offers two electric duct heaters:

  • 1604103 (EDH 6.1) — 6 in. diameter, 1 kW, 120 VAC, adjustable single-stage internal thermostat
  • 02120 — 6 in. diameter, 2000 W, 220 V, adjustable temperature from 0 °C to 40 °C

Installed on the main supply run, downstream of the unit, it tempers incoming air and eliminates the draft sensation at bedroom grilles. It is the difference between a system occupants leave running and one they unplug on January 1.

The network components we specify

The Venmar catalog covers the entire airflow path:

  • Whisper air vents — 4 in. (01269), 5 in. (02863), 6 in. (01271), and 8 in. white register (03585)
  • Grilles and dampers — 4 in x 10 in white damper with flap (00913), 8 in x 12 in indoor grille (04790) and its 8 in adapter (04400)
  • Transitions — 8 x 8 x 8 T (05261), 4 in 90° elbow (01662), insulated Y Tandem transition (04319)
  • 24 VAC air control dampers — 6 in (1603104), 7 in (1603106), 8 in (1603109), normally open and convertible to normally closed
  • Insulated flexible duct — 8 in x 30 ft (04399), 5 in x 20 ft (04316) — and uninsulated duct for indoor use (05247, 04396)

24 VAC dampers deserve special mention: they allow a portion of the system to be interlocked, for example to shut off supply to an unoccupied basement, or to properly interconnect the air exchanger and the central system.

Power and controls

In the jobsite photo, two distinct elements cross beneath the appliance:

The dedicated 120 V outlet. The appliance is plugged into a reserved receptacle within reach of the cord, without an extension cord. This is the configuration expected by the manufacturer.

The low-voltage control cable. The three-conductor wire connecting the wall control to the appliance is left with a service loop rather than pulled tight. We keep it physically separate from the 120 V wiring: running both through the same joist hole introduces electrical noise into the control line, and the resulting symptoms — a display that resets, a speed that changes on its own — are frustrating to diagnose afterward.

Identification. Each duct is permanently labeled with its function, directly on the metal, before the ceiling is closed. The next technician who works on it ten years from now will not have to guess.

The errors we correct most often in ventilation systems

  1. Use flexible ducting for the entire run because it installs faster.
  2. Stack two elbows back to back without a straight section between them. The resulting turbulence is equivalent to several additional feet of ducting.
  3. Reduce the diameter below that of the appliance collar. An appliance with 6-inch collars connected to 5-inch ducting loses airflow from the very first section.
  4. Seal with cloth tape.
  5. Omit the central fan interlock in a simplified or partially dedicated installation.
  6. Leave a duct uninsulated along a section carrying air at outdoor temperature. Condensation is guaranteed, followed by ceiling stains.
  7. Suspend the ducts with wire instead of wide straps, which deform the cross-section.
  8. Do not leave service clearance in front of the unit door.

Measured result

After replacing the supply ductwork with rigid ductwork, adding the duct heater, and completing documented balancing, the homeowner's sound meter displayed 31 dBA in the primary bedroom at the same speed, and the airflow to the back bedroom had gone from nearly zero to a value consistent with the planned distribution.

The unit had not changed. The ductwork had.

Certifications and financial assistance

Venmar AVS and vänEE units are HVI- and cUL-certified, and several carry ENERGY STAR certification, valid in Canada. Venmar has been a member of the Home Ventilating Institute since 1991 and a member of HRAI. Warranties vary by appliance family, from two to five years on parts, with a limited lifetime warranty on the heat recovery core of HRVs.

Replacing an HRV may qualify for the Rénoclimat program, provided the initial energy assessment takes place before the work.

What the La Prairie project highlights

An HVAC installation quote that does not specify the connection method or duct type cannot be compared with another. Two contractors can offer the same unit at the same price and deliver systems whose performance differs by as much as twofold.

The three questions to ask before signing:

  1. Simplified, partially dedicated, or fully dedicated installation?
  2. Rigid or flexible ductwork, and over what proportion of the route?
  3. Will the airflow rates be measured and provided in writing at the end of the work?

At AirGreen, we answer these three questions in the quote, before the work begins. We provide HVAC installation and HVAC maintenance in La Prairie, Candiac, Saint-Constant, Delson, Sainte-Catherine, Saint-Philippe, Brossard, and Longueuil, throughout the entire South Shore, as well as in Montreal, Laval, and on the North Shore.

The steps

How the job unfolds

The main steps of this kind of job at AirGreen. Every house has its quirks: the estimate brings them out.

Step 1 of 9The on-site estimate

We locate the wall for the two outdoor hoods, the unit's spot, service access and the drain.

  1. The on-site estimateWe locate the wall for the two outdoor hoods, the unit's spot, service access and the drain.
  2. The quoteThe unit, its location and the price, in writing.
  3. The unitHung or set level, with clear access to the filters and the core.
  4. The outdoor hoodsFresh air intake and exhaust, kept apart and sealed.
  5. The ductsThe ones connected to the outside are insulated to prevent condensation inside the house.
  6. The drainConnected with its loop, when the unit needs one.
  7. The wall controlInstalled where you will see it and use it.
  8. BalancingIncoming and outgoing airflows are adjusted so the house is neither pressurized nor depressurized.
  9. The walkthroughSpeeds, filters, core: how to use it through the seasons.
The tour

What we check on a job like this one

Each number is a point we check on site. Switch between summer and winter to watch air and heat move.

Generic diagram: air exchanger, ducts and outdoor hoods

Generic illustration of this type of installation, not a survey of this job site. Tap a number.

  1. It removes stale air and brings in fresh air. The two airflows cross in the core without mixing.

  2. It recovers part of the heat from the outgoing air to temper the incoming air. Depending on the model, it also manages humidity.

  3. An outdoor hood, kept away from the exhaust so the house does not pull back the air it just removed.

  4. Humid, stale air leaves through its own hood, fitted with a damper.

  5. The ducts that connect to the outside are insulated to prevent condensation inside the house.

  6. Stale air is drawn from humid rooms and fresh air is sent to living areas. The airflows are balanced.

  7. It sets the mode and speed. You use it more when the house is humid or full of people.

  8. Depending on the model and the season, the core produces condensation, removed through a drain with its loop.

At your place

Is your home ready?

Check what applies at your place. A "no" is not a refusal: it is what we sort out during the estimate.

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Maintenance

Good habits, once the unit is in place

Six simple habits that keep the unit going. Your list stays on this device.

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Through the seasons

What to do, season by season

Three habits per season for this unit. They take a few minutes and prevent many calls.

  • Clean the filters and core as the manufacturer specifies.
  • Check the outdoor hoods: nests, debris, dampers.
  • Lower the speed if the outdoor air gets humid.
For your project

The right pages, at the right time

True or false

Four statements: true or false?

It all comes down to details you have just seen.

1. In an air exchanger, fresh air and stale air mix.

2. The two outdoor hoods must be kept apart.

3. An air exchanger can help with condensation on windows.

4. An exchanger never needs maintenance.

Frequently asked questions

What people ask us about this kind of work

9 questions
What does an air exchanger do?
It renews the air in the house and helps keep humidity in the right range: condensation, dry air, odours.
Does fresh air cool the house in winter?
The core recovers part of the heat from the outgoing air to temper the incoming air.
What speed should it run at?
Higher when the house is humid or full of people, lower the rest of the time. The wall control lets you adjust.
Does an exchanger need cleaning?
Yes. Filters and core get dirty. See our cleaning service.
What are the signs of poor ventilation?
Condensation on windows, lingering odours, stuffy air in closed rooms, mould in cold corners.
HRV or ERV: what is the difference?
An HRV (heat recovery ventilator) recovers heat from the outgoing air. An ERV (energy recovery ventilator) also recovers part of the humidity. The right choice depends on the house.
Should it run in winter?
Yes: winter, with the house closed, is often when humidity and odours build up. Adjust the speed to the condensation on the windows.
Does AirGreen hold the required licences?
Yes. AirGreen holds RBQ licence 5645-9605-01, subclasses 15.8 Ventilation, 15.10 Refrigeration and 16 Electricity.
Is the estimate free?
Yes. The on-site estimate is free and the quote follows within 24 hours. Book my free estimate.

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Text and photo: a real AirGreen Climatisation & Chauffage job. The diagrams are generic illustrations of the type of installation, not a survey of this job site. Sources of the added figures: airgreen.ca product pages (NEEP / AHRI performance), Hydro-Québec (Heat pumps page, LogisVert, read on 13 October 2026), Régie de l’énergie (rate D as of 1 April 2026).

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