Job sheet · Project

Installation of a FANTECH FLEX 100H ES air exchanger in Senneville, West Island of Montreal

A 26-inch technical closet shared with the water heater, a FANTECH FLEX 100H ES air exchanger suspended by chains, and balancing measured with a manometer that corrected a 17 CFM difference between supply and exhaust.

By AirGreen Climatisation & Chauffage Admin11 min read
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Installation of a FANTECH FLEX 100H ES air exchanger in Senneville, West Island of Montreal
Installation of a FANTECH FLEX 100H ES air exchanger in Senneville, West Island of Montreal
The full story

The article, chapter by chapter

The sticker on the unit's door: the only proof that an air exchanger was actually balanced

On the door of this unit suspended in a utility closet in Senneville, there is a printed table that almost no one looks at. Two columns, A and B, a list of airflow rates in cubic feet per minute, and, opposite them, pressures in inches of water column.

This table is the tool that turns an air exchanger installation into a balanced air exchanger. An installer who does not use it does not know the system's actual airflow rates after completing the installation—only those listed in the catalogue.

At AirGreen, we installed a FANTECH FLEX 100H ES in the intergenerational dwelling of a Senneville property, in a 26-inch-wide utility closet shared with the water heater. Here is the project—and above all, the method.

The project: 950 sq. ft. of finished lower-level space

The main property, wooded and secluded like most properties in the village, already had its ventilation. The project involved converting the recently finished lower level into a self-contained dwelling: two bedrooms, a bathroom, a kitchenette, a living-dining room, a separate entrance, and its own electric water heater.

A dwelling of this type presents a constraint that large homes do not: there is nowhere to put the unit. No mechanical room, no accessible crawl space, and no storage closet to sacrifice. The only available space was the recess above the water heater, 26 inches wide, with a finished ceiling directly above it.

The requirement calculated according to the logic of the CSA F326 standard:

  • Primary bedroom: 10 L/s
  • Second bedroom: 5 L/s
  • Living room and dining room: 10 L/s
  • Kitchenette: 5 L/s
  • Bathroom: 5 L/s

Total: 35 L/s, or approximately 74 CFM.

The FLEX 100H ES: an appliance chosen for its compact size—and embraced as such

  • Net airflow of 104 CFM at 0.4 in. w.g., 129 CFM at 0.1 in. w.g., and 70 CFM at 0.8 in. w.g. The margin above the required 74 CFM is adequate without being excessive.
  • 21 ½ in. high, 15 ⅝ in. wide, and 14 ½ in. deep, weighing 39 lb with the core. This footprint is what made the installation possible.
  • 5-in. oval connections on top, allowing the ducts to run directly to the ceiling without side clearance.
  • Aluminum core, washable and more durable than polymer cores in rental applications where maintenance may be neglected.
  • Internal recirculation defrost below -5°C.
  • 168 W, 1.4 A, with a 3-ft. power cord and three-prong plug supplied from the factory.
  • 8.5 in. × 12.5 in. washable electrostatic interior filters.
  • HVI-certified and ENERGY STAR qualified in Canada.
  • 14 in. of recommended front clearance for removing the core.

One point of technical honesty: the FLEX’s sensible recovery efficiency is around 60 to 65% at 0°C, compared with more than 80% for HERO series units. We do not claim otherwise. In this 26-inch closet, a HERO series unit simply would not fit, and the difference in recovery for a 950-square-foot home amounts to a few dozen dollars per heating season. It was the right compromise. We would have rejected it for a 2,500-square-foot house.

How an Air Exchanger Is Actually Balanced

This is the least visible and most critical part of the job.

The A and B Pressure Ports

FANTECH units have two pressure ports, generally identified as A and B on the door’s printed chart: A for the supply airflow (fresh air pushed into the home), B for the exhaust airflow (stale air expelled outdoors). These are standardized measurement points located on either side of the core.

The Manometer Reading

The unit is turned on at the speed to be balanced. We connect a differential pressure gauge to port A and record the pressure, then to port B and record the second reading. The door chart then converts each pressure reading into the actual airflow in CFM for this specific unit.

On this project, at normal speed:

  • First reading, port A: equivalent to 71 CFM
  • First reading, port B: equivalent to 88 CFM

A difference of 17 CFM. The dwelling was operating under negative pressure, which would have drawn air from the main house through the slab and partition walls—precisely the opposite of what an intergenerational dwelling should do.

We adjusted the branch registers until we obtained 77 CFM on supply and 76 CFM on exhaust. Then we repeated the measurement at low and maximum speed, because a unit is balanced at one speed only if it has been checked at the others.

The report, provided to the client

The three sets of readings, the converted airflow rates, and the final register positions are recorded and provided to the occupants. This is the document that will allow a technician, eight years from now, to determine whether the system has drifted. Without it, any subsequent diagnosis starts from scratch.

Flexible duct: where performance is lost without anyone noticing

Insulated flexible duct is perfectly acceptable for short connections to the outdoors, and it is often the only realistic choice in a confined space. It still has to be installed correctly.

Three rules we apply without exception:

  1. Stretch the flexible duct as much as possible. A flexible duct left loose or compressed to 20% of its length loses a considerable portion of its airflow because each spiral becomes an obstruction. We cut it to the exact length, never “a little longer to be safe.”
  2. Limit bends and respect the radius. A tight 90-degree bend in a 5-inch flexible duct is equivalent to several feet of straight duct in terms of pressure loss.
  3. Seal the connections in three layers: aluminum tape on the inner duct, a hose clamp, then restore the insulation and exterior vapor barrier with continuous tape. A vapor barrier left open around an exterior-air duct produces condensation in the closet during winter.

On this project, the two exterior branches pass through the ceiling into a service cavity, then exit through the side wall. We chose the shortest route, even if that meant drilling where the finish would be more difficult to restore.

Suspending above a water heater: what must be preserved

The unit is suspended by anti-vibration chains and isolators anchored to the ceiling joists, never placed on a shelf or mounted flat against the wall. Suspension isolates vibrations and allows the unit to be leveled during installation.

Three requirements for this type of location:

  • The 14-inch front clearance must remain unobstructed at all times; otherwise, the annual core rinse becomes a disassembly job.
  • The electrical outlet must remain accessible. The FLEX is supplied with a power cord and plug; the outlet must therefore be reachable without tools and preferably reserved for the unit.
  • The water heater must remain replaceable. A unit suspended too low or too far forward turns a two-hour water-heater replacement into a half-day job. We systematically check the vertical clearance above the tank before securing the anchors.

The ceiling penetration: a detail that becomes costly later

Every ceiling penetration into an unconditioned space must be sealed around its perimeter, both for airtightness and vapor-barrier continuity. An unsealed penetration allows humid air from the dwelling to migrate into the service cavity, where it condenses on the cold side in January.

Acoustic sealant or low-expansion foam applied around the duct solves the problem in ten minutes. If postponed, it becomes a water stain on the ceiling three winters later.

The most common deficiencies with this type of installation

  • Deliver the system without measuring the pressures at ports A and B. Without readings, there is no balancing, only an estimate.
  • Install a flexible duct that is too long. This is the most common and costly mistake in terms of efficiency.
  • Block the core removal clearance with improvised storage.
  • Choose a unit that is too powerful for the available space, then install it crookedly because there is not enough room.
  • Neglect to seal the penetration.
  • Balance at a single speed.
  • Do not check the water heater's accessibility.

Rénoclimat and eligibility for this type of project

The Rénoclimat program provides $500 for the installation or replacement of a heat recovery ventilator (HRV) or energy recovery ventilator (ERV), subject to two conditions: the unit must be listed in section 3 of the Home Ventilating Institute (HVI) certified products directory—the FLEX 100H ES is certified there—and the EnerGuide rating must improve between the initial and final assessments.

An important point for a multigenerational dwelling: when the two units share spaces that allow air circulation, the energy assessment covers the entire building, not just the added dwelling. The project must therefore be considered on the scale of the complete building, and the initial assessment must be carried out before opening the first ceiling.

Maintaining an Aluminum Core

The core is removed from the front and rinsed with lukewarm water once a year, without harsh detergent that could damage the aluminum. The washable indoor filters are rinsed every three months. The outdoor hoods are checked in the spring. And in a rental or multigenerational dwelling, we recommend assigning these three tasks to the same person for the entire building—the only way to ensure they are actually done.

How We Work in the West Island

Senneville, Baie-D'Urfé, Sainte-Anne-de-Bellevue, and Beaconsfield combine large properties, recent basement renovations, and tiny mechanical closets. We regularly install ventilation systems there in spaces where the first instinct would be to say that nothing will fit.

The method does not change according to the size of the project: airflow calculations before the quote, equipment selection dictated by the actual space rather than the catalog, manometer balancing at all three speeds, and a report provided. We apply the same discipline throughout Greater Montreal, in Laval, Longueuil, on the North Shore, and on the South Shore, for both a complete HVAC installation and annual HVAC maintenance.

To have the ventilation of an added dwelling, a finished basement, or an entire house assessed, contact us at (514) 316-2973 or sales@airgreen.ca. RBQ 5645-9605-01.

The steps

How the job unfolds

The main steps of this kind of job at AirGreen. Every house has its quirks: the estimate brings them out.

Step 1 of 9The on-site estimate

We locate the wall for the two outdoor hoods, the unit's spot, service access and the drain.

  1. The on-site estimateWe locate the wall for the two outdoor hoods, the unit's spot, service access and the drain.
  2. The quoteThe unit, its location and the price, in writing.
  3. The unitHung or set level, with clear access to the filters and the core.
  4. The outdoor hoodsFresh air intake and exhaust, kept apart and sealed.
  5. The ductsThe ones connected to the outside are insulated to prevent condensation inside the house.
  6. The drainConnected with its loop, when the unit needs one.
  7. The wall controlInstalled where you will see it and use it.
  8. BalancingIncoming and outgoing airflows are adjusted so the house is neither pressurized nor depressurized.
  9. The walkthroughSpeeds, filters, core: how to use it through the seasons.
The tour

What we check on a job like this one

Each number is a point we check on site. Switch between summer and winter to watch air and heat move.

Generic diagram: air exchanger, ducts and outdoor hoods

Generic illustration of this type of installation, not a survey of this job site. Tap a number.

  1. It removes stale air and brings in fresh air. The two airflows cross in the core without mixing.

  2. It recovers part of the heat from the outgoing air to temper the incoming air. Depending on the model, it also manages humidity.

  3. An outdoor hood, kept away from the exhaust so the house does not pull back the air it just removed.

  4. Humid, stale air leaves through its own hood, fitted with a damper.

  5. The ducts that connect to the outside are insulated to prevent condensation inside the house.

  6. Stale air is drawn from humid rooms and fresh air is sent to living areas. The airflows are balanced.

  7. It sets the mode and speed. You use it more when the house is humid or full of people.

  8. Depending on the model and the season, the core produces condensation, removed through a drain with its loop.

At your place

Is your home ready?

Check what applies at your place. A "no" is not a refusal: it is what we sort out during the estimate.

0 / 6 checked
Maintenance

Good habits, once the unit is in place

Six simple habits that keep the unit going. Your list stays on this device.

0 / 6 checked
Through the seasons

What to do, season by season

Three habits per season for this unit. They take a few minutes and prevent many calls.

  • Clean the filters and core as the manufacturer specifies.
  • Check the outdoor hoods: nests, debris, dampers.
  • Lower the speed if the outdoor air gets humid.
For your project

The right pages, at the right time

True or false

Four statements: true or false?

It all comes down to details you have just seen.

1. In an air exchanger, fresh air and stale air mix.

2. The two outdoor hoods must be kept apart.

3. An air exchanger can help with condensation on windows.

4. An exchanger never needs maintenance.

Frequently asked questions

What people ask us about this kind of work

9 questions
What does an air exchanger do?
It renews the air in the house and helps keep humidity in the right range: condensation, dry air, odours.
Does fresh air cool the house in winter?
The core recovers part of the heat from the outgoing air to temper the incoming air.
What speed should it run at?
Higher when the house is humid or full of people, lower the rest of the time. The wall control lets you adjust.
Does an exchanger need cleaning?
Yes. Filters and core get dirty. See our cleaning service.
What are the signs of poor ventilation?
Condensation on windows, lingering odours, stuffy air in closed rooms, mould in cold corners.
HRV or ERV: what is the difference?
An HRV (heat recovery ventilator) recovers heat from the outgoing air. An ERV (energy recovery ventilator) also recovers part of the humidity. The right choice depends on the house.
Should it run in winter?
Yes: winter, with the house closed, is often when humidity and odours build up. Adjust the speed to the condensation on the windows.
Does AirGreen hold the required licences?
Yes. AirGreen holds RBQ licence 5645-9605-01, subclasses 15.8 Ventilation, 15.10 Refrigeration and 16 Electricity.
Is the estimate free?
Yes. The on-site estimate is free and the quote follows within 24 hours. Book my free estimate.

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Text and photo: a real AirGreen Climatisation & Chauffage job. The diagrams are generic illustrations of the type of installation, not a survey of this job site. Sources of the added figures: airgreen.ca product pages (NEEP / AHRI performance), Hydro-Québec (Heat pumps page, LogisVert, read on 13 October 2026), Régie de l’énergie (rate D as of 1 April 2026).

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