Installation of a GREE FLEXX R32 central system with an integrated electric furnace in Saint-Paul-de-l'Île-aux-Noix
Open panels: what’s really inside the cabinet of a GREE FLEXX R32. A certified two-stage resistance heater assembly integrated into the unit rather than installed in the plenum, an elevated base near the Richelieu River, and what needs to be adjusted before closing up the walls.
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What you see when the panels are still open
Most installation photos show a closed, clean machine ready for delivery. This one shows the opposite: the GREE FLEXX R32 central system installed in a basement in Saint-Paul-de-l'Île-aux-Noix, with the panels removed, the electrical compartment exposed, and the blower visible.
This is the condition in which an installation should be inspected. Once the panels are screwed back on, everything looks the same. At AirGreen, we believe customers have the right to see inside before the unit is closed up, and we systematically photograph every compartment. This article describes what is behind the sheet metal, why each component is there, and what this means for an all-electric home in Haut-Richelieu.
The electric furnace is in the cabinet, not in the ductwork
The upper-left compartment of the unit contains the component that answers the auxiliary-heating question: an approved electric heating assembly, mounted inside the indoor unit's cabinet.
It shows two integrated two-pole circuit breakers, each powering a bank of elements — in other words, a two-stage auxiliary heater. Next to them are the contactors, sequencers, thermal limiters, the 24 V control transformer, and the red and black power wiring harness.
This configuration is not an installer preference. It follows directly from a requirement stated on the manufacturer's warning label.
Why the location of auxiliary heating is no longer a minor detail with R32
R32 is a refrigerant classified as A2L, meaning it is mildly flammable. The label affixed to the unit states a restriction that systems using R410A did not have: auxiliary devices that could constitute an ignition source must not be installed in the ductwork, except for those approved for use with this specific unit.
In other words, in an all-electric home where additional heating capacity must be added, two options exist on paper — an electric heater installed in the plenum, or a set of heating elements integrated into the unit — but only one is automatically compliant: the one the manufacturer has approved for its own equipment.
The practical benefits of the integrated assembly add up:
- Certification already obtained. No need to verify anything with the manufacturer, and no gray area in the event of an insurance or warranty claim.
- Factory interlock with the fan. The heating elements cannot engage without airflow, and the logic is factory-wired rather than recreated on site. This is the number-one weakness of plenum-mounted setups behind a variable-speed unit.
- Integrated circuit breakers. The supplemental heat can be disconnected at the unit, within the technician’s reach, without making repeated trips to the main panel.
- A single service point. The filter, coil, blower, controls, and heating elements are all housed in the same cabinet.
- No added ignition source in the ductwork.
We recommend this setup on all our R32 projects in Montérégie, on the South Shore as well as in Montréal and Laval.
Sizing the stages without oversizing
The number of stages is not cosmetic. Single-stage supplemental heat operates on an all-or-nothing basis: as soon as it is called for, the full electrical capacity is added to that of the compressor. Two stages allow only what is actually missing to be added.
The calculation method remains the same as for any supplemental heat:
- House heating load at the area’s winter design temperature.
- Heat pump capacity at that same temperature, taken from the manufacturer’s extended performance tables—not from the operating range shown on the sales sheet, which only indicates that the unit operates down to -30 °C, without saying how much it produces at that temperature.
- The difference determines the total heating-element capacity.
To convert: 1 kW = 3,412 BTU/h. A house with a 20,000 BTU/h design-temperature heating deficit needs about 6 kW of supplemental heat, not 15.
Oversizing costs you twice. First at installation, because excessive capacity increases the building’s electrical load calculation and can trigger an unnecessary service upgrade. Then every winter, because one large stage kicks in at full capacity to make up a two-degree gap.
The control compartment: what clean wiring means
To the right of the power block is the main control board, with its low-voltage terminal block and bundle of thin wires—white, yellow, blue, and black.
A well-made control compartment can be recognized by concrete signs visible in the photograph:
- Harnesses secured at regular intervals, kept away from moving parts and hot surfaces
- Wire clamps at sheet-metal openings — a wire running over an unprotected sheet-metal edge will eventually become worn through, generally after a few years of vibration
- Clear separation between high voltage and low voltage, each in its own compartment, with no wiring harness passing through
- Service lengths preserved and coiled, with no taut wire that will need to be extended the first time a component is replaced
- Accessible low-voltage terminal block without removing the control board
This last point deserves a word. On a conventional 24 VAC thermostat system like this one, the terminal block receives the power supply, the cooling call, the heating call, the fan command, the reversing-valve command, and the auxiliary-heat calls. One day, someone will have to replace a thermostat at this terminal block. If access requires removing the control board, the job goes from twenty minutes to two hours.
We photograph the terminal block and the control board before closing it back up, and provide these images to the customer with the installation file. It costs nothing to do, and the first time a technician arrives on-site without ever having seen the equipment, they are worth a great deal.
The blower and the cabinet’s interior insulation
The central compartment contains the centrifugal blower in its galvanized scroll housing, driven by an electronically commutated motor. The cabinet walls and bottom are lined with an insulation with a metallized surface, visible in a silver checkerboard pattern behind the scroll housing.
This interior insulation serves two purposes that are rarely distinguished:
- Acoustic. A blower of this size is audible in an unfinished basement. The lining absorbs some of the airflow noise before it is transmitted to the cabinet’s sheet metal. The technical specifications list 52 dB(A) for the indoor unit, a value measured with the cabinet closed and the insulation in place.
- Thermal. In cooling mode, the inside of the cabinet drops well below the dew point of a Quebec basement in July. Without insulation, the outer surface of the sheet metal would become covered in water. A cabinet that “sweats” does not have a leak: it has a thermal bridge.
A direct maintenance implication: this insulation must never be torn out, punctured, or replaced with ordinary batt insulation during a repair. We have already opened units whose interior insulation had been removed to access a component and never put back. The unit works; it is simply noisier and wets the floor.
The base, the shims, and the issue of water
The unit does not sit directly on the slab. It is installed on a custom-built galvanized sheet-metal return-air plenum, which itself rests on wooden timbers laid on the concrete. Everything is sealed with aluminum tape, with a filter access panel on the front.
This is not a construction detail. It is a design decision, and in Saint-Paul-de-l'Île-aux-Noix it has a particular context.
Elevating mechanical equipment along the Richelieu
The municipality borders the Richelieu at the outlet of Lake Champlain. The area experiences flooding events, and the memory of the major flood in spring 2011 remains vivid among waterfront property owners. Part of the housing stock consists of former seasonal residences converted into permanent homes, often with a basement or crawl space at the water table level.
In this context, the height at which mechanical equipment is installed is not an aesthetic question:
- A unit installed flat on the slab is lost as soon as a few centimeters of water enter the basement. The control board and the heating element assembly are in the lower third of the room's usable volume.
- A unit elevated on a base and a return-air plenum gains meaningful clearance at no significant additional cost.
- The electrical panel, water heater, and central system should ideally be addressed together in this regard. On this job, the electric water heater visible on the left is a natural candidate for elevation when it is next replaced.
We systematically raise this issue when preparing quotes in municipalities along the Richelieu, from Saint-Jean-sur-Richelieu to Lacolle, and in the low-lying areas of the South Shore. The owner decides; they decide with full information.
Leveling on a floor that is not flat
An older basement slab is rarely level. The wooden timbers and shims visible beneath the base are used to correct this.
An out-of-level unit does not drain its condensate pan properly. Water pools in one corner of the pan, biological sludge builds up, the drain clogs, and the pan overflows. This is one of the most common and frequent causes of water damage associated with a central system, and it can be corrected with a carpenter's level during installation.
Install while the basement is still open
The basement walls are framed but not closed in. The insulation panels are installed behind them, and the electrical wiring is still exposed. The HVAC work takes place during the basement finishing.
This is the best possible sequence, and it deserves to be planned intentionally rather than endured.
What we coordinate with the contractor before the walls are closed
- Permanent service clearances. The frontal clearance required to open the panels and remove the coil is determined before the framing is installed, not afterward. A wall erected 18 inches from the front of the unit turns every service visit into a disassembly job.
- Filter access, clear and at floor level, without having to go around a wall or move storage.
- The unit's removal path. On replacement day, fifteen years from now, the cabinet will have to come out. Door width and stairway access must be planned now.
- The duct layout, finalized before the partitions establish the available geometry. Adding one more elbow later to go around a wall that was not in the quote costs static pressure for the system's entire service life.
- Photographs of everything that will be concealed: ducts, wiring, refrigerant piping, condensate line. These images are worth their weight in gold at the first service call.
- The mechanical room's return air, if the room is to be enclosed. This point directly relates to the minimum area requirement associated with A2L refrigerant: this unit, charged with 4.6 kg of R32, requires 13.71 m² (147.5 ft²) according to the label's table. An open basement comfortably meets this value. An enclosed 3 m by 2 m mechanical room does not. The partition that does not yet exist can make the installation non-compliant.
This sixth point is the one we most often see missed on basement finishing projects. The unit is properly installed in an open space; six months later, a renovation contractor builds a wall around it.
Technical data for the system installed in Saint-Paul-de-l'Île-aux-Noix
| Item | Specification |
|---|---|
| Outdoor unit | GREE GUD60W2/NhE-D(U) |
| Indoor unit | GREE GUD48AH2/G-D(U) |
| Certified AHRI number | 217120761 |
| Cooling capacity | 48,000 BTU/h (modulating 34,000–50,000) |
| Heating capacity | 48,000 BTU/h (modulating 34,000–52,000) |
| SEER2 | 19 |
| HSPF2 | 10 |
| EER2 | 12 |
| COP | 3,4 |
| Certification | ENERGY STAR |
| Heating range | -30 °C to 24 °C |
| Cooling range | -15 °C to 54 °C |
| Refrigerant | R32 (A2L) — 4.6 kg; required minimum area 13.71 m² (147.5 ft²) |
| Indoor airflow | 1,200 ft³/min at 125 Pa (0.5 in. w.g.) |
| Sound level | 52 dB(A) indoor / 62 dB(A) outdoor |
| Power supply | 208–230 V — MOCP 45 A (outdoor) / 15 A (indoor) |
| Piping | 3/8 in liquid, 3/4 in gas |
| Factory charge | 7.5 m (24.6 ft); maximum 30 m; add 0.22 oz/ft (20 g/m) |
| Weight | 241.4 lb (outdoor) / 199.5 lb (indoor) |
| Backup heat | Approved, cabinet-integrated, two-stage resistance heater assembly with integrated two-pole circuit breakers |
| Controls | Conventional 24 VAC thermostat, factory-installed Wi-Fi |
| Detection | Factory-installed A2L leak sensor, continuously powered |
| Warranty | 10 years, extended to 12 years with product registration |
Eligibility for rebate programs
The system carries ENERGY STAR certification and a certified AHRI number (217120761), the two documents normally required for the application. We verify eligibility using the exact indoor and outdoor unit combination before signing, because a stated efficiency rating that does not match the combination actually installed remains the main reason for rejection. Thresholds and amounts change from year to year; we check them up to date rather than promising them from memory.
Mistakes to avoid with this type of installation
- Installing the backup heater in the plenum without verifying its approval for an A2L appliance
- Sizing the backup heat “to be safe” rather than according to the actual shortfall at the balance point
- Choosing single-stage backup heat for a variable-speed system
- Installing the appliance directly on the slab in a flood-prone area
- Neglecting leveling and blocking the condensate pan drainage
- Closing the basement walls before determining the service clearances and exit route
- Building a partition around an A2L appliance without rechecking the required minimum area
- Closing the panels without photographing the control compartment
At AirGreen, we carry out this type of HVAC installation in Saint-Paul-de-l'Île-aux-Noix, throughout Haut-Richelieu and Montérégie, as well as in Montreal, Laval, Longueuil, the South Shore, and the North Shore. Whether you need a central heat pump with an integrated electric furnace installed, an existing system replaced, or HVAC maintenance, our team visits your home, takes measurements, coordinates with your other trades, and provides a quote based on what your basement actually allows.
The job tools
Two quick checks with real numbers: what heat costs, and what your current heaters add up to in BTU/h.
Conversion: 1 W = 3.412 BTU/h. An indication, not a load calculation: baseboards and furnaces are often stronger than the real need, and they can stay as backup. AirGreen confirms the capacity on site.
How the job unfolds
The main steps of this kind of job at AirGreen. Every house has its quirks: the estimate brings them out.
We look at the ducts, the current indoor module, the electrical panel and the planned spot for the outdoor unit.
The equipment combination, capacity and price, in writing. We check whether the combination qualifies for assistance programs.
Access protected, old unit disconnected and removed when it is being replaced.
Electric furnace or air handler, with its coil, connected to the supply and return ducts.
On a level base, raised above the snow, with free space all around.
Insulated, they enter through a sealed opening and run to the indoor coil.
Dedicated circuits, accessible disconnect, a thermostat that works with the heat pump and the backup heat.
Leak test, vacuum, start-up, airflow check and a test of both modes.
Filter, thermostat, backup heat in extreme cold: what to know before winter.
- The on-site estimateWe look at the ducts, the current indoor module, the electrical panel and the planned spot for the outdoor unit.
- The quoteThe equipment combination, capacity and price, in writing. We check whether the combination qualifies for assistance programs.
- Getting readyAccess protected, old unit disconnected and removed when it is being replaced.
- The indoor moduleElectric furnace or air handler, with its coil, connected to the supply and return ducts.
- The outdoor unitOn a level base, raised above the snow, with free space all around.
- The refrigerant linesInsulated, they enter through a sealed opening and run to the indoor coil.
- Electrical and thermostatDedicated circuits, accessible disconnect, a thermostat that works with the heat pump and the backup heat.
- Tests and start-upLeak test, vacuum, start-up, airflow check and a test of both modes.
- The walkthroughFilter, thermostat, backup heat in extreme cold: what to know before winter.
What we check on a job like this one
Each number is a point we check on site. Switch between summer and winter to watch air and heat move.
In summer, the outdoor unit rejects the house's heat outside.
Generic illustration of this type of installation, not a survey of this job site. Tap a number.
It captures or rejects heat outside. It sits on a level base, above the snow, with free space all around.
The insulated refrigerant lines enter the house through a sealed opening and run to the indoor coil.
A shut-off switch near the outdoor unit isolates it safely for service.
Sitting on the indoor module, it moves heat between the house air and the refrigerant.
Electric furnace or air handler: its fan pushes air through the ducts. The electric backup takes over in extreme cold.
Supply ducts bring air to the rooms; returns bring it back to the unit. Their condition matters as much as the unit's.
It protects the coil and the fan. A dirty filter cuts airflow, so it gets checked regularly.
It runs the heat pump and the backup heat. It must be compatible with the installed system.
Is your home ready?
Check what applies at your place. A "no" is not a refusal: it is what we sort out during the estimate.
Good habits, once the unit is in place
Six simple habits that keep the unit going. Your list stays on this device.
What to do, season by season
Three habits per season for this unit. They take a few minutes and prevent many calls.
- Check the indoor module's filter.
- Clear winter debris from the outdoor unit.
- Test cooling before the heat arrives.
- Check the filter more often in peak season.
- Keep registers and returns clear.
- Watch condensate drainage near the coil.
- Change or clean the filter.
- Test heating and backup heat before the cold.
- Book periodic maintenance.
- Clear snow around the outdoor unit.
- Store nothing in front of the indoor module.
- Note any unusual noise or smell and call us.
The right pages, at the right time
Four statements: true or false?
It all comes down to details you have just seen.
1. A central heat pump uses the house's ducts.
It connects to the existing ducts to heat and cool everywhere.
2. In extreme cold, electric backup heat can take over.
The indoor module (furnace or air handler) works with the heat pump and takes over in extreme cold.
3. The filter only gets changed when the unit breaks down.
A dirty filter cuts airflow. It gets checked regularly.
4. You can reuse the old unit's size without checking.
The house may have changed: insulation, windows, added rooms. Capacity is confirmed on site.
0 / 4 right answers
What people ask us about this kind of work
Can I keep my current ducts?
What happens in extreme cold?
Furnace, air handler, ducted: what is the difference?
Are there grants?
Do I need a permit?
How much can I save?
How is the LogisVert assistance calculated?
Will my current thermostat work?
Central or wall units: which one?
Does AirGreen hold the required licences?
Is the estimate free?
No question matches. Write to us: we answer.
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Text and photo: a real AirGreen Climatisation & Chauffage job. The diagrams are generic illustrations of the type of installation, not a survey of this job site. Sources of the added figures: airgreen.ca product pages (NEEP / AHRI performance), Hydro-Québec (Heat pumps page, LogisVert, read on 13 October 2026), Régie de l’énergie (rate D as of 1 April 2026).
