Project

Installation of a Fantech FLEX 100H air exchanger in a basement in Côte Saint-Luc

Finished basement, closely spaced joists, 58% humidity in January: here’s how we installed a Fantech FLEX 100H air exchanger in Côte Saint-Luc—with vibration isolation, insulated ducts, a trapped drain, and balancing within 10%.

By AirGreen Climatisation & Chauffage Admin9 min read
Installation of a Fantech FLEX 100H air exchanger in a basement in Côte Saint-Luc
Installation of a Fantech FLEX 100H air exchanger in a basement in Côte Saint-Luc
–chapters in this story
9 minreading time
–type of installation
2026year published
The tour

Take a tour of the installation

Each number is a point we check on site. Switch between summer and winter to watch air and heat move.

Generic diagram: air exchanger, ducts and outdoor hoods

Generic illustration of this type of installation, not a survey of this job site. Tap a number.

  1. It removes stale air and brings in fresh air. The two airflows cross in the core without mixing.

  2. It recovers part of the heat from the outgoing air to temper the incoming air. Depending on the model, it also manages humidity.

  3. An outdoor hood, kept away from the exhaust so the house does not pull back the air it just removed.

  4. Humid, stale air leaves through its own hood, fitted with a damper.

  5. The ducts that connect to the outside are insulated to prevent condensation inside the house.

  6. Stale air is drawn from humid rooms and fresh air is sent to living areas. The airflows are balanced.

  7. It sets the mode and speed. You use it more when the house is humid or full of people.

  8. Depending on the model and the season, the core produces condensation, removed through a drain with its loop.

The job

A postwar bungalow that breathed through its cracks — until they were sealed

Côte Saint-Luc is among the areas on the island where the housing stock has been extensively modernized over the past fifteen years: windows replaced, doors weatherstripped, attics blown to R-50, basements finished. Each improvement reduces the heating bill. Together, they also eliminate the “accidental” ventilation that kept the air breathable. The homeowner called us in February with three classic symptoms: condensation on the lower third of the ground-floor windows, cooking odors that lingered until the next morning, and a finished basement that smelled musty despite a dehumidifier running nonstop.

The diagnosis did not require exotic instrumentation. A hygrometer indicated 58% relative humidity at an outdoor temperature of -12°C — well above the 30% to 40% target for winter. The house was not lacking heat; it was lacking air exchange.

Why an air exchanger instead of simply a bathroom fan

An exhaust fan expels heated air and replaces it with… whatever happens to enter. In a tight house, it creates negative pressure that draws air through the only available paths: the crawl space, the floor drain, the water heater flue. This is the mechanism behind combustion-gas backdrafting, and it is precisely what a balanced system prevents.

An air exchanger — a heat recovery ventilator, or HRV — circulates two equal airflows in opposite directions through a core: outgoing stale air transfers its heat to incoming fresh air without the two airstreams mixing. The air in the house is replaced without throwing heat out the window and without depressurizing the building.

Choosing the Fantech FLEX 100H for this house

Space was the main constraint. The finished basement in Côte Saint-Luc had only one available mechanical area, near the water heater, with 2 x 8 joists and limited ceiling clearance. A unit with side ports would have required more clearance width than was possible without demolishing drywall.

The FLEX 100H from Fantech has top-mounted ports, which makes all the difference in a tight space: the four connections run directly up into the joist cavity instead of extending sideways. Its actual specifications:

  • Airflow range: 49 to 104 CFM at 0.4 in. water column
  • Connections: 5 in., oval type (adapted to round with transition collars)
  • Dimensions: 17 7/8 in. (H) x 21 1/2 in. (W) x 14 1/2 in. (D)
  • Weight: 39 lb — light enough to suspend on chains between two joists
  • Power supply: 120 V, 1.6 A max
  • Defrost: by recirculation, without stopping the supply fan
  • Sensible recovery efficiency: 60% at 0°C, 56% at -25°C (low speed)

The defrost mode deserves an explanation because it is the point homeowners understand least. On units with supply-fan shutdown, the fresh-air supply stops during the defrost cycle — during a cold snap at -25°C, this can amount to a significant portion of an hour without fresh air. The FLEX 100H’s recirculation defrost closes off the outdoor intake and circulates indoor air through the core to thaw it. Indoor ventilation never stops, and stagnant air that contributes to winter condensation does not build up.

For a larger house or a higher performance requirement, we generally specify the HERO series instead — the HERO 150H-EC achieves 84% sensible recovery and a fan efficiency of 3.0 CFM per watt thanks to its EC motors. It is a unit we regularly install in Ville Mont-Royal and Hampstead, in homes of 3,000 sq. ft. and larger. Here, with seven main rooms and a calculated requirement below 100 CFM, the FLEX 100H met the demand with a comfortable reserve, in a cabinet that actually fit the available space.

The installation process, step by step

Day 1 — Suspension and electrical connection. The unit is suspended by four chains fitted with isolation springs, never screwed directly to the joists. This detail visible in the photo is not cosmetic: a rigidly bolted HRV transmits its vibrations into the wood structure, and the bedroom above becomes a drum. The springs decouple the unit from the framing. A dedicated 120 V outlet powers the unit — no extension cord and no sharing a circuit with the sump pump.

Day 1 — Exterior openings. Two wall hoods, one for fresh-air intake and the other for stale-air exhaust, are spaced more than 6 feet apart to prevent air short-circuiting. We also position them away from the dryer vent, water-heater vent and garage entrance. In Côte Saint-Luc, the height above the ground must also account for snow accumulation: an intake hood buried in January chokes the airflow of a unit that appeared perfectly balanced in October.

Day 2 — Ductwork. The exterior sections are made with insulated flexible duct featuring a continuous vapor barrier and joints sealed with aluminum tape. An uninsulated fresh-air duct running through a heated basement condenses along its entire length and drips onto the finished ceiling — this is one of the repairs we most often perform on installations completed by others. Bend radii are kept generous: flexible duct crushed at 90 degrees can add as much pressure loss as 20 feet of straight duct.

Day 2 — Condensate drain. The core produces water. The drain is connected with a trap to the floor drain. Without a trap, the unit draws air through the drain line, making it impossible to maintain proper balance.

Day 2 — Balancing. The label on the unit door shows the relationship between airflow in CFM and the pressure measured at the supply and stale-air ports. Balancing is performed at Normal (high) speed with a differential pressure gauge, adjusting the dampers until the two airflows are equal within a 10% tolerance. An unbalanced HRV is a unit that continuously pressurizes or depressurizes the house — exactly the problem we were trying to correct.

The mistakes we most often see with air exchangers

  1. No balancing. The unit is connected, it blows air, and the customer is satisfied for the first month. Three winters later, the house is under negative pressure and the basement smells like a drain.
  2. Exhaust only in the bathrooms, supply only in the basement. Fresh air must reach the bedrooms and living room, where occupants spend their time.
  3. Hoods too close together. Stale air is immediately drawn back in; the unit recycles its own odor.
  4. Failure to maintain the filters. Filters should be rinsed or replaced every three months, and the core should be washed once a year. A dirty core loses efficiency and makes the motors work harder.
  5. Wrong control selected. A simple switch leaves the unit running continuously or not at all. A multi-mode wall control, or a VOC-sensing control such as the ECO-Touch IAQ, modulates airflow according to the actual air quality.

The measured result

Three weeks after commissioning, relative humidity stabilized between 34% and 38% during the day at an outdoor temperature of -15°C. Condensation on the windows had stopped, except on the oldest pane on the north façade. The homeowner reported the detail we tend to stop thinking about after twenty years in the trade: cooking odors now disappear within an hour instead of lingering until the next day.

Our approach to air exchanger installation in Greater Montreal

At AirGreen, we install residential ventilation systems in Montreal, Laval, Longueuil, the North Shore and the South Shore, in settings ranging from a Plateau triplex to a Chomedey bungalow, as well as homes in Brossard and Terrebonne. Each area brings its own constraints: municipal regulations governing façade openings, shared walls in Côte-des-Neiges duplexes, and 6 ft. 4 in. ceiling heights in Saint-Léonard basements.

We calculate the required airflow based on the number of rooms before proposing a model, never the other way around. We systematically balance the system during commissioning and record the values. And we explain to customers how to maintain their unit, because an HRV neglected for five years becomes nothing more than a metal box hanging from the ceiling.

For an assessment of HVAC installation or replacement of an air exchanger in Côte Saint-Luc or elsewhere in Greater Montreal, our team comes to your home, takes measurements and proposes a system sized for the actual house rather than for a catalogue.

The steps

The big day, step by step

The main steps of this kind of job at AirGreen. Every house has its quirks: the estimate brings them out.

Step 1 of 9The on-site estimate

We locate the wall for the two outdoor hoods, the unit's spot, service access and the drain.

  1. The on-site estimateWe locate the wall for the two outdoor hoods, the unit's spot, service access and the drain.
  2. The quoteThe unit, its location and the price, in writing.
  3. The unitHung or set level, with clear access to the filters and the core.
  4. The outdoor hoodsFresh air intake and exhaust, kept apart and sealed.
  5. The ductsThe ones connected to the outside are insulated to prevent condensation inside the house.
  6. The drainConnected with its loop, when the unit needs one.
  7. The wall controlInstalled where you will see it and use it.
  8. BalancingIncoming and outgoing airflows are adjusted so the house is neither pressurized nor depressurized.
  9. The walkthroughSpeeds, filters, core: how to use it through the seasons.
Mistakes avoided

Four mistakes we do not make

Flip each card to see what we do instead.

Going further

Your own project, step by step

Through the seasons

What to do, season by season

Three habits per season for this unit. They take a few minutes and prevent many calls.

  • Clean the filters and core as the manufacturer specifies.
  • Check the outdoor hoods: nests, debris, dampers.
  • Lower the speed if the outdoor air gets humid.
At your place

Is your home ready?

Check what applies at your place. A "no" is not a refusal: it is what we sort out during the estimate.

0 / 6 checked
True or false

Four statements: true or false?

It all comes down to details you have just seen.

1. In an air exchanger, fresh air and stale air mix.

2. The two outdoor hoods must be kept apart.

3. An air exchanger can help with condensation on windows.

4. An exchanger never needs maintenance.

Frequently asked questions

What people ask us about this kind of work

9 questions
What does an air exchanger do?
It renews the air in the house and helps keep humidity in the right range: condensation, dry air, odours.
Does fresh air cool the house in winter?
The core recovers part of the heat from the outgoing air to temper the incoming air.
What speed should it run at?
Higher when the house is humid or full of people, lower the rest of the time. The wall control lets you adjust.
Does an exchanger need cleaning?
Yes. Filters and core get dirty. See our cleaning service.
What are the signs of poor ventilation?
Condensation on windows, lingering odours, stuffy air in closed rooms, mould in cold corners.
HRV or ERV: what is the difference?
An HRV (heat recovery ventilator) recovers heat from the outgoing air. An ERV (energy recovery ventilator) also recovers part of the humidity. The right choice depends on the house.
Should it run in winter?
Yes: winter, with the house closed, is often when humidity and odours build up. Adjust the speed to the condensation on the windows.
Does AirGreen hold the required licences?
Yes. AirGreen holds RBQ licence 5645-9605-01, subclasses 15.8 Ventilation, 15.10 Refrigeration and 16 Electricity.
Is the estimate free?
Yes. The on-site estimate is free and the quote follows within 24 hours. Book my free estimate.

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The on-site estimate is free and the quote follows within 24 hours.

  • RBQ licence5645-9605-01 · 15.8, 15.10, 16
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Text and photo: a real AirGreen Climatisation & Chauffage job. The diagrams are generic illustrations of the type of installation, not a survey of this job site. Sources of the added figures: airgreen.ca product pages (NEEP / AHRI performance), Hydro-Québec (Heat pumps page, LogisVert, read on 13 October 2026), Régie de l’énergie (rate D as of 1 April 2026).

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