Project

Installation of a GREE FreeMatch R32 2-head heat pump in Saint-Denis-sur-Richelieu

GREE FreeMatch R32 two-head heat pump installed in a character home in Saint-Denis-sur-Richelieu: integrated beneath moldings and picture rails, concealed refrigerant lines, required intake clearances maintained, woodwork preserved. 24,000 BTU/h, SEER2 21.

By AirGreen Climatisation & Chauffage Admin11 min read
Installation of a GREE FreeMatch R32 2-head heat pump in Saint-Denis-sur-Richelieu
Installation of a GREE FreeMatch R32 2-head heat pump in Saint-Denis-sur-Richelieu
–chapters in this story
11 minreading time
–type of installation
2026year published
The tour

Take a tour of the installation

Each number is a point we check on site. Switch between summer and winter to watch air and heat move.

Generic diagram: wall-mounted heat pump, indoor and outdoor units

In summer, the outdoor unit rejects the house's heat outside.

Generic illustration of this type of installation, not a survey of this job site. Tap a number.

  1. Mounted level on a wall plate, high enough for the air to reach the whole room, with enough space around it to slide the filters out easily.

  2. The refrigerant lines, the communication cable and the drain go through the wall in a single opening, sealed against water, cold air and insects.

  3. Two insulated copper pipes connect the two units. Outside, a line cover can protect them from sun, knocks and weather.

  4. A shut-off switch near the outdoor unit isolates it safely for service. It must stay accessible at all times.

  5. The compressor and the fan. In heating mode it captures heat from the outdoor air, even in winter, and moves it inside.

  6. On the ground or on the wall, it keeps the unit above accumulated snow. The unit stays clear and defrost water can drain away.

  7. The fan needs to blow freely. Storage, a fence or a wall too close, and efficiency drops while noise goes up.

The job

Cooling a character home without damaging what gives it its value

Saint-Denis-sur-Richelieu is one of the villages where architecture is not a minor detail. Woodwork, chair rails, crown molding, original plaster: in these homes, every intervention leaves a trace, and poorly executed traces are difficult to erase.

The homeowner who contacted us therefore asked the question differently than usual. Not “how much does it cost,” but: “Will it be noticeable?”

It is a legitimate question, and it completely changes the installation method.

Why an older home is particularly well suited to a wall-mounted heat pump

The paradox is worth stating up front: character homes are often the best candidates for a ductless system.

A home built before the era of forced-air heating has no duct network. Installing central air conditioning would mean building vertical chases, lowering ceilings, sacrificing closets—in short, mutilating the space to make room for airflow.

A ductless multi-zone system needs only two copper lines, a cable, and a drain. The entire setup fits within a route just a few centimeters in diameter. It is the least invasive way to cool and heat a heritage home.

It still has to be done properly.

The five constraints of an interior with decorative woodwork, and how we addressed them

1. Finding an available wall when every wall has decorative woodwork

On this project, the room has panel molding across the entire lower section, crown molding around the perimeter, and solid walls between the two.

The possible installation area is therefore narrow: the strip of wall between the top of the chair rail and the crown molding.

Our method consists of evaluating each candidate wall according to three criteria, in this order:

  1. The distance to the outdoor unit. The shortest route provides the best efficiency and requires the fewest penetrations.
  2. Air circulation in the room. A head placed in a dead corner or facing an obstacle can only treat part of the volume.
  3. Visual discretion. A wall that is not often viewed from living areas is preferable to one in direct view from the entrance.

The third criterion never takes precedence over the first two. A perfectly concealed unit that heats poorly is a failure.

2. Maintain clearance above the unit

This is the technical point most often overlooked in the pursuit of being “discreet at all costs.”

A wall-mounted unit draws air in from above and discharges it below. Placing the cabinet against crown molding obstructs the intake. Airflow drops, discharge-air temperature deteriorates, and the unit eventually has to work harder for a poorer result.

Every manufacturer publishes a minimum clearance above and beside the cabinet. These values are not aesthetic recommendations: they are operating requirements.

In a room with crown molding, this sometimes means lowering the unit a few centimeters compared with where the client would have preferred it. We would rather explain this compromise in advance than deal with it during a service call two years later.

3. Make the lines disappear without opening the walls

This is where the difference between an ordinary installation and a carefully executed one becomes clear.

The default option in the industry is a white PVC line set cover installed on the wall. Functional, quick, and completely out of place in a room with wood trim.

The alternatives we systematically assess in old houses:

  • Routing through the wall cavity, when the construction allows it.
  • Routing through an adjacent cupboard, closet, or storage area, where the line set becomes invisible.
  • Routing directly through the exterior wall, behind the unit, when the outdoor unit can be positioned on the right side. This is the cleanest solution: nothing runs indoors.
  • Routing through the space beneath the floor or through the attic, depending on the floor being serviced.

The decision is made during the technical assessment, not on the morning of the installation. In an old house, improvisation is expensive when plaster repairs are involved.

4. Drill without cracking

An old-house wall is not the same as a wall in a recently built home. Depending on the period and region, you may encounter wood-lath plaster, solid masonry, irregular half-timbering, or several successive layers of renovations.

Drilling into this with a rotary hammer, as with a modern framed wall, produces cracks that radiate far beyond the hole.

Our precautions:

  • Preliminary identification of the structure and utilities before any drilling.
  • Core drilling rather than impact drilling in fragile materials.
  • Drilling angled outward, with careful sealing. A horizontal hole or one angled inward directs rainwater into the structure—a defect we regularly correct, generally after a water stain has appeared on an interior wall.
  • Floor and woodwork protection throughout the work.
5. The outdoor unit and the appearance of the façade

In older village centers, the appearance of buildings visible from public roads is often subject to municipal regulations, particularly when the area has heritage recognition.

We therefore systematically invite owners in these areas to check with their municipality whether installing a visible façade-mounted unit is regulated before deciding where to place the outdoor unit. This verification takes one phone call and avoids a costly correction.

Technically speaking, we favor side or rear façades anyway: less visibility, less exposure to snow falling from the front roof, and often a shorter route.

The equipment installed and why it is suitable here

The selected outdoor unit is the GREE FreeMatch R32, model GWHD(24)ND6MO, powering two indoor units.

Its defining features:

  • Nominal capacity of 7,030 W (24,000 BTU/h), for both heating and cooling.
  • Modulation from 7,500 to 31,400 BTU/h thanks to the G10 inverter compressor.
  • Certified heating from -30 °C to 24 °C; cooling up to 48 °C.
  • SEER2 21 / HSPF2 10 / EER2 12, ENERGY STAR certified.
  • R32 refrigerant (A2L), 1,700 g precharged, integrated leak detection sensor.
  • Quiet operation and intelligent defrosting.
  • Indoor units powered by the outdoor unit.
  • 10-year warranty standard.
Silence: a criterion that matters more in an older home

Character homes have high ceilings, hard surfaces, and few sound-absorbing materials. Sound travels and reverberates much more in them than in a recent construction with low ceilings and soft finishes.

An appliance that continuously modulates at low speed therefore offers a double advantage: it is quieter during normal operation and, above all, it avoids starting and stopping—these transitions, more than operating noise, are what attract attention in a quiet room.

Electrical service in an older building

The additional point to watch is the electrical panel. Many older homes have a panel with limited capacity, sometimes already heavily loaded.

For this model, the MCA is 19.5 A and the maximum overcurrent protection is 25 A, at 208/230 V. A single dedicated circuit is sufficient for the entire system, since the indoor heads are powered by the outdoor unit.

This is a real advantage: a conventional multi-zone system with two outdoor units would require two circuits, and therefore two available spaces in the electrical panel. We nevertheless verify the available capacity before confirming feasibility.

Load calculation in an older building envelope

A home more than a century old cannot be calculated like a 1985 bungalow.

The parameters that systematically skew quick estimates:

  • Air infiltration, generally much higher and highly variable from one home to another depending on past renovations.
  • Wall insulation, often partial, sometimes nonexistent, and sometimes added by blown-in insulation.
  • Fenestration, whose performance varies greatly depending on the replacements that have been made.
  • Ceiling heights, which increase the volume to be conditioned without increasing the floor area.
  • The enclosed-room layout, typical of older architecture, limits air circulation between zones.

This last point is decisive when choosing the number of heads. A single head cannot condition a compartmentalized home, regardless of its capacity. Warm or cool air does not pass through closed doors.

We therefore measure room by room and position the heads according to how air actually circulates through the lived-in home—not as it appears on a floor plan.

The A2L constraint in enclosed rooms

R32 is classified as mildly flammable. This requires a minimum room volume for each indoor head, calculated based on the system charge.

In a compartmentalized older home, with small bedrooms and offices, this verification is not theoretical. It can guide the choice of capacity for each head, and even its position.

We perform this calculation during the design stage, before proposing a configuration—in Saint-Denis-sur-Richelieu as well as in Saint-Hyacinthe, Longueuil, Montréal, Laval, on the North Shore or the South Shore.

Financial assistance

GREE documentation indicates that these systems are eligible for local rebates, and ENERGY STAR certification is among the common criteria for Quebec energy-efficiency programs.

Eligibility depends on your situation: the heating source being replaced, the type of building, and the program in effect when the work is carried out. We validate the application before the work and provide the installation documentation required for applications, rather than announcing an amount that might not apply.

What the homeowner obtained

  • Complete air conditioning in a home that had never had it, without ducts, lowered ceilings, or sacrificing a closet.
  • Effective supplemental heating during the shoulder seasons and in moderate cold, reducing the demand on the existing system.
  • No visible cable trunking in the living areas.
  • Intact woodwork and mouldings.
  • Two independently controlled zones.

Maintenance: a few particular considerations for older homes

In addition to the usual tasks—cleaning the filters every 4 to 6 weeks, annual HVAC maintenance, and clearing the outdoor unit—two points should be added:

  • Older homes generate more fine dust, especially when original wood floors and poorly sealed attics remain. Filters become clogged faster than anticipated.
  • The condensate drain should be inspected annually, particularly when it follows a long or diverted route to remain hidden.

Do you own a character home in Saint-Denis-sur-Richelieu or the Richelieu Valley and hesitate to install a heat pump because you are concerned about your décor? Contact us. The technical visit is specifically intended to determine what is possible without compromising the appearance—and to tell you honestly where a compromise would be necessary.

The steps

The big day, step by step

The main steps of this kind of job at AirGreen. Every house has its quirks: the estimate brings them out.

Step 1 of 9The on-site estimate

We look at the room, the outside wall, the line route and where the outdoor unit will go. That is where the capacity gets chosen.

  1. The on-site estimateWe look at the room, the outside wall, the line route and where the outdoor unit will go. That is where the capacity gets chosen.
  2. The quoteModel, capacity and price, in writing. We also check whether the model qualifies for assistance programs.
  3. Getting readyFloors and furniture protected, wall plate position marked level, wall opening located.
  4. The wall openingA single opening, with the slope the drain needs to flow outside.
  5. The outdoor unitSet on a stand raised above the snow, with the clearances the manufacturer requires.
  6. Lines, cable and drainConnected, insulated and protected. The opening is then sealed against water, cold air and insects.
  7. The electrical workA dedicated circuit and an accessible disconnect near the outdoor unit.
  8. Tests and start-upLeak test, vacuum, then start-up and a check of heating and cooling.
  9. The walkthroughRemote, modes, filters: we show you the essentials before we leave.
Your numbers

What would it look like at your place?

Two quick checks with real numbers: what heat costs, and what your current heaters add up to in BTU/h.

Size checkYour baseboards, in BTU/h
–BTU/h of installed electric heat

    Conversion: 1 W = 3.412 BTU/h. An indication, not a load calculation: baseboards and furnaces are often stronger than the real need, and they can stay as backup. AirGreen confirms the capacity on site.

    Mistakes avoided

    Four mistakes we do not make

    Flip each card to see what we do instead.

    Going further

    Your own project, step by step

    Through the seasons

    What to do, season by season

    Three habits per season for this unit. They take a few minutes and prevent many calls.

    • Clean the indoor unit's filters.
    • Clear leaves and debris left on the outdoor unit by winter.
    • Test cooling before the first hot days.
    At your place

    Is your home ready?

    Check what applies at your place. A "no" is not a refusal: it is what we sort out during the estimate.

    0 / 6 checked
    True or false

    Four statements: true or false?

    It all comes down to details you have just seen.

    1. In heating mode, the outdoor unit can produce water.

    2. You pick the capacity with a simple square-footage rule.

    3. A multi-zone connects several indoor heads to a single condenser.

    4. The disconnect can sit behind the patio furniture.

    Frequently asked questions

    What people ask us about this kind of work

    12 questions
    Does a wall-mounted heat pump heat in winter?
    Yes, it heats and cools. Its capacity drops in very cold weather; the operating range depends on the model and is listed on its spec sheet.
    Wall-mounted or multi-zone: how do I choose?
    One wall head and one condenser outside: the direct solution for a room or an open area. For two to five rooms, a multi-zone puts one head in each room on a single condenser.
    Where does the outdoor unit go?
    Where it stays above the snow, clear and accessible, away from walkways. We decide it with you during the estimate.
    Are there grants?
    Depending on the model and your situation, assistance programs may apply, including Hydro-Québec's LogisVert. AirGreen checks the model number before quoting an amount. See the grants.
    Do I need a permit?
    Rules vary from city to city: location, distances, noise. See permits and by-laws, and we check for your address.
    How cold can it heat?
    It depends on the model. According to Hydro-Québec, newer models work down to a temperature between −15 °C and −25 °C, and some cold-climate models are certified lower. The minimum temperature is on each unit's spec sheet.
    How much can I save?
    Hydro-Québec says a heat pump can be up to three times more efficient than baseboards for heating in the colder months. The result depends on the house, the climate and how it is used.
    How is the LogisVert assistance calculated?
    For ENERGY STAR cold-climate certified heat pumps, Hydro-Québec lists assistance of $120 per 1,000 BTU/h of heating capacity at −8 °C. AirGreen checks the exact model before quoting an amount; only Hydro-Québec confirms the assistance granted. See the grants.
    Is it noisy?
    The sound level depends on the model and is listed in decibels on each unit's spec sheet. Location matters too: when possible, we avoid putting the outdoor unit under a bedroom window.
    The outdoor unit is covered in ice: is that normal?
    Some frost is: the unit runs defrost cycles. Never hit the ice. If the unit stays iced up or stops heating, call us.
    Does AirGreen hold the required licences?
    Yes. AirGreen holds RBQ licence 5645-9605-01, subclasses 15.8 Ventilation, 15.10 Refrigeration and 16 Electricity.
    Is the estimate free?
    Yes. The on-site estimate is free and the quote follows within 24 hours. Book my free estimate.

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    Text and photo: a real AirGreen Climatisation & Chauffage job. The diagrams are generic illustrations of the type of installation, not a survey of this job site. Sources of the added figures: airgreen.ca product pages (NEEP / AHRI performance), Hydro-Québec (Heat pumps page, LogisVert, read on 13 October 2026), Régie de l’énergie (rate D as of 1 April 2026).

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